The leaks Austin homes get

Not all leaks are created equal, and Austin has a particular greatest-hits list. Knowing which one you're dealing with changes everything about the fix.

Slab leaks

The big one. Most Austin homes sit on concrete slabs with water lines running underneath, and our expansive clay soil moves those slabs — microscopically, season after season. That movement stresses copper lines until they crack or rub through at a contact point. A slab leak can run for months before you notice, quietly undermining the soil under your foundation. We've written a full breakdown of the seven warning signs of slab leaks — if your water bill jumped or your floor feels warm, start there.

Pinhole leaks in copper

Tiny, almost invisible perforations in copper pipe, often spraying a fine mist inside a wall. Austin's water chemistry pits copper from the inside out in some neighborhoods, and pinholes travel in packs: fixing one buys time, but the second and third are already forming. Two pinhole repairs in a year is our rule of thumb for having the repipe conversation.

Wall, ceiling, and fixture leaks

Failed supply-line connections, corroded angle stops, cracked toilet supply lines, shower valves leaking inside the wall — the visible-damage crew. These are usually the fastest to fix because access is straightforward, but the water damage they cause (mold, rotted subfloor, ruined drywall) is what makes speed matter.

How we find hidden leaks

Guessing means opening walls. We don't guess. A leak detection visit works like this: we shut off fixtures and pressure-test sections of the system to confirm thereis a leak and narrow down whether it's on the hot side, cold side, or the sewer. Then acoustic equipment — essentially a highly sensitive stethoscope — picks up the sound of water escaping under pressure. Thermal imaging shows the temperature signature of a hot-line leak through slab or drywall. Moisture meters map how far the water has traveled. Only when we've triangulated the spot do we open anything — usually a hole you could cover with your hand.

Repair options, honestly ranked

  • Spot repair. Cut out the failed section and replace it. Right for a single, clearly isolated failure in an otherwise healthy system — a cracked fitting, one bad joint.
  • Reroute. Abandon the leaking line (often under a slab) and run a new line overhead through walls and attic. Frequently cheaper and cleaner than breaking concrete for slab leaks.
  • Partial repipe. Replace the failing zone — say, all the hot-water lines, which fail first. A middle path when damage is concentrated.
  • Whole-house repipe. Replace everything with PEX or copper. The right call when leaks are recurring, the pipe is at end of life, or you're already opening walls for a remodel. It's a bigger project that ends the leak cycle for decades.

We'll recommend the smallest fix that actually solves the problem — and we'll tell you when the smallest fix is a bandage. A third spot repair on the same aging copper system isn't thrift; it's a subscription to water damage.

What to do the moment you suspect a leak

  1. Check the meter. Turn off everything in the house and watch the meter's leak indicator. Spinning dial = water going somewhere.
  2. Isolate if you can. Hot-side leak (warm floor, hot water running out fast)? Shut the cold inlet to the water heater. Single fixture? Use its shutoff valve.
  3. Document. Photos of stains, meter readings, and the water bill spike. Your future insurance claim will thank you.
  4. Call before it spreads. Water damage compounds by the day — drywall, flooring, and mold don't wait for a convenient appointment. (512) 233-6590.

If water is actively pouring, skip the detective work and go straight to our Austin emergency plumber page.