PRV install & replacement
New pressure reducing valve sized for your home, set to a safe 50–60 PSI — or replacement of a worn-out unit that's letting street pressure through. The highest-value single upgrade for high-pressure homes.
Water pressure solutions
Weak shower or hammering pipes? Both are fixable.
Water pressure problems are symptoms, not diagnoses. We test your system properly — static and dynamic pressure, PRV function, line condition — and fix the actual cause, whether it's too little pressure or dangerously too much.
Two problems, one diagnostic
Too low, too high — we handle both
Homeowners usually notice one extreme or the other. The causes — and the fixes — are completely different, which is why testing comes first.
Low pressure
Weak showers, slow-filling toilets, trickling faucets. Causes range from the simple (clogged aerators, a failing PRV, a half-closed valve) to the systemic (corroded galvanized lines, hidden leaks). We isolate the cause with pressure testing at multiple points before recommending anything.
High pressure
Banging pipes, dripping T&P valves, toilets that run, appliances dying young. Street pressure over 80 PSI needs a PRV — full stop. If you already have one and pressure is still high, it's failed or misadjusted, and replacement is straightforward.
Common fixes
What the diagnosis usually leads to
Thermal expansion control
High pressure plus a closed system (check valve or PRV) means thermal expansion has nowhere to go — stressing your water heater and fixtures. An expansion tank absorbs it. We check for this on every pressure call.
Line & fixture restoration
When low pressure traces to corroded piping, we fix what's fixable — and have the honest repipe conversation when the system is done. Clogged aerators and failing shutoffs get handled on the spot.
Pressure problems plus repeat leaks? Read about whole-home repiping. Suspect a hidden leak is stealing your pressure? See leak detection & repair.
Tested, not guessed
Find out what your pressure really is.
A proper pressure diagnostic takes minutes — and points straight at the fix.
FAQ
Pressure questions, answered
What causes low water pressure in a house?
The usual suspects, in order: a failing or mis-set pressure reducing valve (PRV), partially closed shutoff valves, clogged fixture aerators or showerheads, corroded galvanized pipes narrowing from the inside, a hidden leak diverting water, or low municipal supply pressure. We test systematically to find which one is yours — the fix depends entirely on the cause.
What causes high water pressure, and why is it bad?
Municipal supply pressure in parts of Central Texas runs well above the safe 40–80 PSI range for homes — sometimes over 100 PSI. High pressure feels great in the shower but silently destroys fixtures, supply hoses, water heaters, and appliance valves, and it voids some warranties. A PRV valve brings it into the safe zone.
What is a PRV valve and do I need one?
A pressure reducing valve sits on your main water line and caps incoming pressure at a safe level (usually 50–60 PSI). If your home doesn't have one and your street pressure is high, you need one — it's the single highest-value protection for your plumbing system. PRVs wear out every 7–12 years, so an existing one may need replacement or adjustment.
Why does my shower go cold or weak when someone flushes?
That's a flow problem, not just a pressure problem: corroded or undersized supply lines can't deliver enough volume for two fixtures at once, so they fight over it. Newer pressure-balancing shower valves prevent the scalding, but the real fix is addressing the restricted piping — sometimes a targeted fix, sometimes a repipe conversation.
Can you test my water pressure?
Yes — it's a quick diagnostic. We measure static pressure (no water running) and dynamic pressure (under flow) at hose bibs and fixtures, which tells us whether the issue is supply-side, valve-side, or inside your piping. The test takes minutes and points straight at the fix.
Ready when you are.
Austin: (512) 233-6590 · Marble Falls: (830) 460-3565